A Season Recap: What It's Like to Travel In Croatia Right Now

Gabi leading a hike on the Island of Brač.

OneSeed Croatia guide Gabi Nuñez Cardenas welcomed many travelers to Croatia this season after a year of pandemic-halted travel. Since Croatia opened its borders earlier this year, some things have changed and some are just the time when it comes to traveling along the Dalmatian Coast. Hear from Gabi as she recounts the changes (many for the better) and what to expect on a Croatia Multi-Sport expedition.

How has Croatia been impacted by the global pandemic, what has changed?

Since the entire world went on pause for over a year, things slowed down a lot in Croatia, and even more for those of us living on the islands. People went back to their family jobs, working the land, going to the sea, fishing for their own lunch, making their own products or tools, and reviving the olives fields and vineyards.

Everyone connected to tourism was affected, but it also helped local communities appreciate how rich their culture is and how to revive that culture through their contribution to tourism.

It also raised local awareness about how the ecosystem has been damaged from uncontrolled overtourism and plastic pollution, and how after one year so much has been recovered. 

Interactions between locals and visitors became more personal. There was more focus on the quality and how to represent Adriatic culture and localities and start to take care of the local environment.

What was it like to travel to Croatia this season (May-Sept 2021)?

With all the regulations between countries inside and outside of the EU, tourism is not as accessible to all as it was before. Luckily travelers from the U.S. have an easy time traveling to and from Croatia, and this season were only required to enter their information on this web form and provide a valid vaccine card or a negative rapid covid test to enter the country.

Airports were far less crowded, though there were still plenty of travelers coming here. We spent our time outdoors during the day and the only time we encountered other travelers was during relaxed dinners on open terraces where everyone is enjoying the silence.

This season, masks were required indoors in both the cities and islands, but with most dining and activities held outdoors, the mask mandate was not very noticeable. But just like back home, not everyone outside of our travel group was wearing masks -- so we had to adjust and keep to social distancing protocols. 

Rapid covid tests were easily arranged by a doctor's visit or at the medical center in Komiža-VIS on our last night. For travelers that extend their visit in Dubrovnik testing can be arranged on a mobile app.

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What are a few of your favorite moments from this season?

Some of our older travelers take the gold medal for showing me that being adventurous and curious about life has no age limit. Our travelers Cathy and Linda, who were in their 70s, swam more than any client I have met. They couldn't wait to jump off the zodiac and swim in a sea cave!

Lorena and Jorge were incredible hikers on the trail! While some family members stayed to enjoy the view before the highest peak in Velji Graf - Mljet, Lorena joined me all the way to the top for the hardest part.

I also loved the gastronomy party with Amy and Cath. It was a small group but we took our time to enjoy every meal, try out different dishes, and learn about the farm-to-table process. I saw an honest appreciation for Dalmatian cuisine and how much love is invested from picking the best products into the simplicity in traditional recipes.

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What small, special touches make this trip so memorable?

There are so many, but here are a few of the favorites:

• Everyone really enjoys the wine and picnics including the little "marendas" (snacks) along the trail. The delicious homemade dinners made by our hosts really show how everyone is involved in the process of cooking a traditional meal. The mother's fresh-baked bread, the grilled fish caught during winter hibernation, the vegetables from grandma's garden, Marja's perfected lavender cake...

• Being on the sea, paddling in the open water near forts, castles, and churches that have been there for thousands of years and still take your breath away. 

• Biking among the salty lakes in Mljet with all those different blues, riding through slow and quiet villages, and driving down the hill with vineyards and olive fields all around us.

• The visit to my village, meeting my goats, trying small pastries from my neighbor’s window!

• Finishing the trip with a full day enjoying the sea in a little fisherman's village on the Island of Vis, and the last home-cooked meal you enjoy while the sun sets over the water.

Who are some of the key local partners that travelers get to meet on the expedition?

Spending a day with Luška, Tea, and the rest of their family is my absolute favorite. They are so welcoming from the moment we greet each other in Kozarica Bay through the whole 8.5 miles of kayaking. The excursion finishes with them inviting us to meet their family, home, and try some family recipes. Lukša and his family share similar thoughts on how things should run and how to preserve the environment while wanting to provide an authentic experience to travelers.

Visiting Miho and Marija’s family farm in Gruda is wonderful. They rebuilt it into a restaurant that serves traditional south Dalmatian food with a modern twist. And of course, all their products are local or homegrown.

Marin Radulj in Korazica, Mljet is the definition of Croatian hospitality. He is the most authentic host I have ever met, a master on the grill, and your favorite bartender. He runs a family-run business with an interesting history and background.

And the drivers! Because we depend on them and their level of professionalism is a big part of running an excellent trip. 


Why is it important to you to partner with locals as part of the Croatia Multi-Sport trip?

For me, it is important that we keep local family traditions going and encourage young entrepreneurs to join in sustainable tourism. If the local tourism is running in a sustainable way then there is more space to improve in new technologies and educate local communities in all forms of tourism from farming to sailing. The social, economic, and environmental factors are evolving as we all are evolving. 

A Day in Dubrovnik: What to See & Do

It is possible to see the highlights of Dubrovnik (a World Heritage site) AND save time for a cool dip in the Adriatic in a single day. To get oriented to this “Jewel of the Adriatic,” take a stroll atop the high stone walls ringing the Old Town core.

The main entrance to the 1.25-mile wall circuit is located near Pile Gate, the beautiful archway and stone bridge marking the entry to Old Town from the west. Wall admission tickets (about $32 for adults) can be purchased in advance online. The city walls simultaneously offer stunning views of the sparkling Adriatic and glimpses of central squares, tangled back streets, and hidden residential gardens.  

Wall construction began in the 10th Century and, along with Dubrovnik’s Pile Gate and Fort Lovrijenac, the city walls served as a recurring set piece for the popular Game of Thrones television series. (Yes, there are GoT walking tours!)

The steps from Pile’s Gate lead into the Stradun, the city’s main pedestrian-only promenade paved in smooth white limestone stretching all the way to the harbor.  Outdoor cafes along Brsalje Street offer great people-watching—and the side streets and Old Town squares offer lively spots for shopping, dining, and street vendors.   

Visit the 15th century Gornji Ugao Tower built into the northwest corner of the walls (free with your walls admission ticket), peek into the Dubrovnik Cathedral and Treasury, and make time for the highly recommended War Photo Limited, a two-story exhibition space of powerful photojournalism.

But beach options await! Take a 15-minute ferry ride to the island of Lokrum from Dubrovnik’s Old Town harbor (departures every 30 minutes for about $20 roundtrip). Lokrum offers a variety of beaches (including a clothing-optional spot), but take your own food and water as little is sold on the island.     

Or, get your beach fix without leaving Dubrovnik. Banje Beach, considered one of Croatia’s best beaches, is just a short walk from the Old Town and a great place to swim, sun, and stroll.

Before dinner or to watch the sunset, grab a drink at Cafe Buza located on a rocky terrace above the Adriatic. To reach it, walk through the buza (hole in the wall) on the south side of the city walls and take a seat!  (Tip: Ask the locals if you can’t find it. The hole in the wall is marked only by a “Cold Drinks” sign … and this spot can get crowded.) Great seafood and Italian dining options abound, and the Old Town Center is a lovely destination for an evening of dining and nightlife. 

Dubrovnik is a fascinating add-on to any Croatia adventure. Spoiler alert: You might not want to leave.

Extending Your Trip in Split, Croatia

What to do for a day in Split, Croatia 

No Croatian island adventure would be complete without adding one day’s exploration and overnight “palace stay” in the sparkling seaside port of Split.

Not only can you dine and sleep within palace walls, but you can also simultaneously indulge a passion for Roman ruins and that “guilty pleasure” — Game of Thrones — by visiting ancient sites where real emperors walked and the popular fantasy series was filmed. [And, yes, there is a new GoT museum to visit!] 

Built amid imposing Roman ruins, Split hugs the Adriatic coastline and offers an easy arrival and departure point for island ferries — but Croatia’s second-largest city of 176,000 people is itself a destination worth savoring.

With a full day and overnight stay, focus your time on Split’s “Old Town,” a stone’s throw from the city’s stunning seaside promenade, The Riva, with its palm tree-shaded outdoor cafes and easy and welcoming vibe that attracts visitors and locals alike.

The ruins of Diocletian’s Palace provide a spectacular backdrop to The Riva. The Roman emperor Diocletian built the imposing structure at the beginning of the fourth century as a retirement home and military garrison. The palace walls originally encompassed 30,000 square meters (or a little more than seven acres) and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

Today Diocletian’s Palace contains some of the city’s most interesting overnight stays, shopping, restaurants, and ancient sites. Its narrow, winding streets and alleyways link art galleries, outdoor coffee shops, and the Temple of Jupiter to the city’s “heart” — the Peristyle, the central square that opens onto Diocletian’s apartments built from imported marble and flanked by two sphinx imported from Egypt. Tour them free of charge!

Split is easily explored on foot and safe for day and nighttime strolls. Take in Old Town’s Pjaca Square with its outdoor cafes, the Renaissance architecture of Fruit Square, the stunning views from the Campanile bell tower, and the amazing ring of open air columns that are part of St. Duje’s, the world’s oldest cathedral.

Excellent affordable seafood and Mediterranean restaurants abound, many with sweeping waterfront or rooftop vistas. Extending your Croatian adventure never looked so good. 

Add an extra night or two at the end of your trip in Split:

7 Ways to Travel More Sustainably on Your Next Adventure

1. Come prepared with helpful knowledge

Spend some time learning about the history and culture of the areas you plan to visit. Having a general background will provide a unique lens as you travel, plus your guides will be able to share more and help answer any questions in-country.

Be sure to research local customs before you arrive. What may be a friendly gesture in one country could be quite offensive in another. The easiest way to respect local customs is to know what they are.

Next, familiarize yourself with sustainability issues unique to that location. From water scarcity to animal welfare, every country (including your own) has unique and complex issues with sustainability. Get to know what issues your particular destination is facing to make responsible decisions while traveling.

Lastly, don’t forget to brush up on the local language. Bring a small notebook or make a note in your phone translating “hello/goodbye,” “yes/no”, “please/thank you,” plus a few more phrases that may come in handy. Learning just a few words of the language can go a long way. Don’t worry too much about your pronunciation, people always appreciate the effort!

2. Research your tour operator

Once in a lifetime trips are a big investment, and cost is always a factor when deciding where to travel. You may spend a few years saving to climb Kilimanjaro or visit Easter Island, but before booking the cheapest deal out there, consider the tour operator and why it costs what it does.  

Responsible travel operators choose suppliers that have good environmental practices and are locally owned, they pay their staff fair wages, manage their own environmental impact, and consider animal welfare. While this can be difficult to verify, look for operators who opt-in to third party verification. Partner companies of the Kilimanjaro Porter’s Assistance Project are audited annually (and on every climb) for proper wages and fair treatment of porters. Travel companies with B Corp certification have had their business verified to meet a high standard of sustainability and are legally required to consider the impact of their decisions on their workers, customers, suppliers, community, and the environment. Greenwashing is rampant in most industries these days - be sure to look for official certifications.

It’s a fine balance between finding something affordable and ensuring that your money is being well spent. If a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is! 

3. Offset the carbon emissions from your flight 

It’s hard to avoid flying across continents to reach your next travel destination. Unfortunately, the biggest contributor to greenhouse gases in the travel industry are long-haul flights. The first and most important step is to invest in projects that offset your flight’s emissions to achieve climate neutrality. Luckily, it’s affordable and shouldn’t take more than 5 minutes.

First, find a reputable organization that has been vetted and is transparent about the projects that they fund. (OneSeed currently uses South Pole to offset all expeditions and internal operations). Next, input your flight itinerary and your carbon emissions will be calculated by the metric ton. Lastly, choose a carbon offset project to fund like forest reforestation, clean cooking stoves, and renewable energy projects.

While methods like carbon capture and sequestration would help move the needle beyond just net-zero, they aren’t yet available or affordable to the masses. It’s important to not let perfect get in the way of good. Changing habits slowly over time helps shift mindsets towards the importance of protecting our planet. 

Other flights tips and tricks to lower your impact:

• Minimize air travel

• Take nonstop flights whenever possible  

• Fly economy rather than business or first class as you’re responsible for less of the calculated emissions based on available space

4. Bring a reusable water bottle filter

The amount of plastic filling our landfills and oceans is overwhelming. Microplastics are being found in our drinking water, even contaminating water and wildlife as far south as Antarctica. While big business and manufacturing need to change, we can always do our part.  

Commit to using a reusable water bottle wherever you go, whether that’s at home or traveling abroad. When you’re in countries where the water is not safe to drink, it can be easy to reach for bottled water as it’s cheap and easy. Keep in mind that many countries don’t have an efficient recycling system, so that plastic bottle is likely going straight into the trash.

The best option is to bring a reusable water bottle and filter system. Try a SteriPen that purifies water through UV light. Water treatment tablets work well and don’t take up much room. A water bottle filter like GRAYL can be an easy all-in-one solution where you fill the water bottle and push the lid filter down to purify the water in about 15 seconds. Being prepared with a water filter system ensures that you can drink from the tap in your hotel, a spigot along the trail, or from a river or lake without the worry of getting sick.

5. Support local business, not chains or imports

Shopping local is a great way to ensure an economy and community thrive. Whether you’re traveling with a tour operator or on your own, make sure to stay at hotels that are locally owned and ideally have environmental best practices in place and/or give back to their local community. That goes for restaurants and other attractions that have private ownership as well. Consider venturing off-the-beaten-path from the more touristy neighborhoods or popular trekking routes to find a restaurant or store.  

Keep in mind, when shopping for handicrafts, art, and other souvenirs, your money can go a long way. While haggling is common in many cultures, pay what feels fair rather than the cheapest possible price. What amounts to just one or two US dollars means quite a bit more to someone selling a custom handicraft that likely took hours or days to make. It’s always helpful to research your destination to see what is customary when purchasing goods. Lastly, be sure to purchase locally made goods (not ones imported from other countries) to support local artisans.    

6. Give back responsibly

It’s great to want to give back when you travel. Instead of bringing miscellaneous items and gifts, ask your tour operator for recommendations or connect with a local nonprofit operating in the country. It’s best to ask first rather than assume as local organizations are the experts when it comes to what a community really needs, and what it doesn’t. 

Consider donating the outdoor gear you use on your trek. It can help out a porter and lighten your luggage on the way home. Depending on your destination, guides and porters often appreciate hiking boots or quality outdoor gear if you want to donate them when you leave. Talk to your tour operator first or ask your head guide what would be most helpful.

If you’re set on volunteering your time while abroad, due diligence is key. Short term volunteer opportunities can often undermine local initiatives without addressing the root cause of issues a particular country or population faces. Monetary and resource support, as well as long-term engagement with skilled individuals, has shown to be the most successful at addressing issues in developing countries. 

At OneSeed, our mission does not include volunteer opportunities, rather it offers travelers a way to directly bolster the local economy. By investing 10% of every trip cost in nonprofit microfinance partners, travelers help empower local entrepreneurs to launch or expand their business through collateral-free microloans. We do not visit borrowers during expeditions as we want to respect their time and privacy, and they are not always located near major cities or travel routes.

7. Remember how you got there

It’s been reported that more than 80% of the world’s population has never flown on an airplane. That may be hard to believe the next time you’re delayed in an overcrowded terminal, but it’s true. While traveling has its ups and downs, it’s important to remember why and how you got there. The freedom your citizenship and passport gives you to cross borders, to choose when and where you want to go is a great privilege. Most people will never have the opportunity to leave the country, let alone the region, they grew up in. Heading into a new adventure with the right mindset will really set the tone of your trip, and will help determine how you interact with the people and place.

Like anywhere in the world, most people welcome visitors with kindness and respect. Be sure to do the same and remember that you are in someone else’s home country and culture. Think twice before taking photos of people going about their daily lives and avoid photos of children. If you want to take someone’s photo, be sure to ask first. Some people may ask for money in exchange for a photo, which is not uncommon in high traffic tourist areas. Just agree on a price beforehand if you’re comfortable doing so.

And finally, remember that English is almost always a second or third language for everyone you will interact with while traveling. Frustrated that you can’t understand the shopkeeper’s broken English? It’s likely you can’t say as much in their own dialect. It’s pretty hard these days to travel far enough to see zero signs in English. Be grateful that the bathroom sign says “toilet” rather than “शौचालय”!

Reflections on a First Ascents Trip to Croatia

Written by OneSeed Latin America Region Director Sergio Nunez

A first ascent in mountaineering always has a halo of mysticism around it, for the unknown and the challenge. This is why we call our first trips to a new location “First Ascents” as they involve a lot of preparation and discovery. Our return travelers are always the first to try out our new destinations as part of the First Ascents community, getting exclusive access to new itineraries and ultimately helping shape our trips. 

We chose Croatia as our next destination because we love to offer our travelers more places and experiences. In this particular case, my sister Gabi had been living in Croatia for over six years and had begun working in tourism. It seemed like a perfect fit, and after a year of scouting locations, meeting with local partners, and a practice run with OneSeed’s founder this summer, the itinerary was set.

I joined our first group of travelers in Croatia this September. This trip was particularly special to me and Gabi because we are descendants of immigrants that settled in Patagonia from Croatia. It means a lot to be able to explore and share our homeland. Croatia’s landscape is so unique as well. You hike past vineyards where locals are picking olives and grapes, and you kayak past fisherman bringing in a fresh catch (that you might eat that night!).

One thing that was surprising was hearing how past OneSeeders remember their guides above all else. Not necessarily the height of the mountains, but the names and backstories of their guides and how happy they were with them. This felt incredibly rewarding - thank you OneSeed guides!

It can be difficult to go from being a OneSeed staff member to a traveler, but once I made the switch and just enjoyed the pace, the food, the smiles of my travel companions, and the feedback - it was such a great reminder of why I love this job.

Dobrodošli !! (welcome!)

Meet OneSeed's Newest Croatia Guide: Gabriela Nuñez Cardenas

The OneSeed team is incredibly excited to be working with our newest guide, Gabi Nuñez Cardenas. She has been instrumental in our expansion to Croatia this year and we want you to get to know her a bit before you join her for your expedition in the Western Balkans.

How did you start working in adventure travel?

• I was born and raised in Chilean Patagonia in Punta Arenas. Everything started from there. Living in a beautiful landscape that’s famous for outdoor activities and adventure tourism was an easy way to start my career. My first job at 17-years-old was cleaning and maintaining the trails in Torres del Paine National Park. After that, I made it my goal to turn work into something I enjoy the most; being outdoors and discovering new places to hike.

What are your ties to Croatia, and how did you come to live in Zagreb?

• I’m actually writing this from the Dalmatian Island where my great-great-grandparents sailed away in exchange for my dear Patagonia 100 years ago. I have always been curious about exploring my Croatian roots, and decided to move here six year ago. It’s been amazing to explore their landscapes and share the same feeling of emigrating to a new place that is now home.

What is one of your favorite things about living Croatia?

• What's not to like? The Adriatic coast with its stunning blue colors and perfect sea temperature. The thousands of hikes through black pine woods, rocky mountains, or deep green valleys. Speaking of valleys, there are so many wine valleys with a variety of red and white wines served with delicious food. It’s also the capital of sailing and cycling! Croatia is a warm and easygoing place. I love that it’s the perfect place to relax and but also has plenty of adrenaline inducing adventure.

What part of the Croatia Multi-Sport itinerary are you most excited about?

• I’m most excited for our days in Mljet National Park Mljet and Geopark Biševo. The national park on the Island of Mljet is a recent discovery for me. I want to explore more of the history of the island and the geological and oceanographic phenomena. Spending a day with our friends from Geopark Biševo on the Island of Vis will also be fantastic. The area is under the protection of UNESCO and the work they're doing is inspiring. The island of Vis has a charm you can't forget.

How to Assess Your Fitness for Mountain Trekking

So how difficult IS it to climb Mount Kilimanjaro? Or to hike all the way to Machu Picchu?

All of our expeditions are open to adventurers without previous trekking experience. Whether you want a relaxed walking tour or to push your limits with a high-altitude multi-day trek, our activity level scale indicates the expected level of fitness for each expedition.

It’s important to note that various factors that go into assigning a difficulty level to our trips. Those include altitude, whether it’s self supported (carrying your own pack), the difficulty of the terrain, the climate, and the length of time and miles on the trail.

LEVEL 1

• These expeditions do not have any fitness requirements. No hiking is required.

• The only Level 1 expedition we offer is the Serengeti Safari where most of your journey is spent in the car (walking discouraged for obvious reasons!)

LEVEL 2

• These expeditions include walking or a short hike.

• A great example would be the 5-day Taste of Peru trip. The perfect combination of sightseeing in town, exploring ancient ruins, and short hikes.

LEVEL 3

• These expeditions require an average level of fitness and the ability to hike over variable terrain. These are great first treks of 3-6 hours duration on a typical day.

• We offer a number of Level 3 trips, including our Hidden Colombia expedition. This trip requires several river crossings in hot and humid weather and a fair amount of hiking steep trails and stone steps.

LEVEL 4

• These expeditions require above average physical fitness. Treks may reach high altitudes and require high levels of physical exertion. No technical skills are required, and first-time trekkers are welcome. Typical days require 5-10 hours of trekking, and some expeditions include significant elevation changes.

• Most of our trips are rated as a Level 4. Our Ultimate Machu Picchu expedition is a great example of longer days with a few tough climbs up and over high mountain passes like Salkantay Pass. While this trek provides porters, the elevation and sections of steep trekking make it a solid 4.

LEVEL 5

• These expeditions require excellent physical fitness. Treks include longer days, greater elevation gain, and more challenging terrain at higher altitudes. Participants should expect high levels of physical exertion at times. Travelers joining these expeditions should be in good physical shape and should expect to hike all day.

• Our hardest treks are Everest Base Camp and our Kilimanjaro climbs. These expeditions earned a Level 5 due to the physical and mental challenges. Both require long days at very high altitudes. Despite being supported treks with porters, they both require stamina and the drive to conquer the mountain.

• You don’t need to be a skilled mountaineer to tackle these trips - just physically fit and mentally prepared for the once in a lifetime challenge head!

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A Note on Solo Traveler Fees

We know solo traveler fees are a bummer and trust us, we don't like charging them either. We require the extra fee because it's the best possible way to provide a fair price to all clients. The solo traveler fee covers the increased cost of hotel stay (single vs. double rooms), ground transportation, and the additional guides, porters, or cooks needed while on the trail.

The good news? The solo room fee guarantees your very own single/private room while in your host city.

Solo Traveler Match Service

If you are interested in being introduced to other solo travelers to avoid the solo supplement fee, reach out to one of our expedition specialists to join our complimentary matching program. If there is another solo traveler of the same gender on your group expedition that is seeking a match, our customer service team will help facilitate and determine if both parties are comfortable sharing accommodations. OneSeed must confirm a match a minimum of 60 days prior to an expedition in order to make appropriate arrangements. All decisions to match are the sole discretion of the traveler.

Connect with Your Fellow Travelers

Our Facebook groups are a great place to source information and tips from past travelers as well as meet other participants traveling on your group expeditions dates.